Just Fish: Poses And Pose Montages


One of the simplest methods of fishing is with a pose or float assembly it is versatile and easy to set up. Mounts with floats can be very fine bite indicators when set correctly. Besides, the moment when the float goes down and announces a bite is incomparable when fishing. In this article I would like to explain the basics and what to keep in mind when fishing with the float.

Table of Contents A simple pose assemblyVarious poses for different purposesDurchlaufpospos vs. lock poseThe right pose for the riverThe right pose for still watersPoses for the sea or for swellEquipment for pose anglingTechniques for angling with the poseTowing with the pose at the trout pondFishing with poses (floats)Fishing with the pose Correctly fade out with a lead shot on the bottomThe depth of the waterFathomingDeep water or at a distance Sounding out – a plumb bob mountingBenefits and drawbacks of pose mountingSurface angling with water ballAdditional articles

A simple pose mounting

Pose mounting need not be complicated. Here is a simple but successful example of a continuous pose:

  • First the stopper is placed on the main line
  • A small bead follows the stopper on the main line
  • The continuous pose is also placed on the main line
  • Afterwards also the main lead is attached to the main line
  • Now a swivel is knotted to the main line
  • To which the leader with hook is attached. Small lead shot is clamped to the leader to lead the pose correctly.

Different poses for different purposes

There is now a huge number of different poses and for almost every situation and water there are special poses. Whether it’s waggler or underwater pose, pike pose or fine fish pose – the choice is huge. Nevertheless it does not need to be so complicated.      The pose size or the carrying capacity should be adapted to the target fish species and method. On roach or arbours I like to use poses around 1g or even below, while on pike with bait fish sometimes thick 20g floats can be the right choice. On careful zander I always like to use a very slim elongated pose, which has little water resistance, with a carrying capacity that fits the required weight, usually around 5-12g.

Continuous pose vs. locking pose

There are poses that can glide freely on the main line (up to the stopper) – these are continuous poses. These are usually stopped by a silicone stopper or a thread stopper. The advantage: you can set your pose lower than the rod is long. This is not the case with locking poses, which are clamped firmly onto the line, e.g. with rubber bands or a stopper. Such poses are then used either for very short mounts or for still fishing with bolognese or head rod.

The right pose for the river

For rivers with strong currents, there are special lollipop poses for angling for peace fish, which are flattened at the sides and thus offer little flow resistance. Mostly poses for the river have a longer antenna and a roundish single float body.

The right pose for still waters

For still waters slim models are the first choice. The float body is distributed over the whole pose and offers little resistance to the fish when biting. Wagglers are one such example or porcupine poses.

Poses for the sea or for swell

Here rather pot-bellied oval forms have established themselves. They remain relatively reliable on the surface even in heavy swell. The classic polystyrene poses are an example of this.

Equipment for pose fishing

No special equipment is needed to be successful with the pose. However, rods that are as long and soft as possible are advantageous in order to cast long pose montages well. The reel is simply adapted to the target fish species. You don’t need a special line either, often you fish with monofilament on the pose mount.

Techniques for fishing with the pose

Here I would like to present some more special techniques for fishing with poses and pose like floats.

Trolling with the pose on the trout pond

For “trolling” you do not necessarily need a boat. Classically this method is used at the trout pond, but is also successful at the natural lake. Here, the float assembly is simply cast out and slowly cranked in, quasi spinning fishing with the pose. I personally love to search larger sections of water. My variant for natural lakes is to move the swimmer again and again, the lure plays provocatively and changes its water depth briefly. This can also trigger bites “if the delicious lure suddenly runs away”.

How to fish with poses (swimmers)

Small practice video of me: I have created a small video here in which I briefly explain assembly etc. and also catch a few fish. This is my first video and not yet mature 🙂

Fade out correctly

Before the assembly is ready for use. You have to lead it out first, that means there must be enough lead underneath the float on the main line or on the leader so that the float straightens up. Optimum lead removal is achieved when only the tip or a small part of the float is visible in the water. Then the fish feels very little resistance when it pulls the float under water when biting.

With a lead shot on the bottom

You can also intentionally overlead a swimmer assembly, i.e. put more lead on the line than the swimmer is actually carrying and then leave the last lead shot, which should just make the swimmer sink, on the bottom. The assembly must then be perfectly plumbed so that the distance from the float to the last lead shot corresponds to the depth of the water and the shimmer still protrudes from the water. A bite is then often announced by placing the float on the water surface.

Sounding the depth of the water

Sounding is not always necessary, for example when fishing in mid-water or close to the surface.

However, it is usually helpful to know exactly how deep the water is at the fishing spot. In my little Basic Video I tell you how you can easily fathom the water without having to buy a lead. Even if special plumb bobs are easy to handle and belong to the standard equipment for fishing in poses.

Plumbing is actually quite simple, because with the heavy solder lead you simply lead over its assembly, now the float is placed on the main line upwards until it appears on the surface. Now you know exactly how deep it is at the fishing spot. It is also worthwhile to go to the water just for sounding out and looking for good fishing spots.

Deep water or long distance sounding – a plumb line assembly

To quickly and successfully sound out very deep water or even further out you can build a plumb line assembly. It works like this: you thread a free-running lead on the main line, e.g. a 50 or 80g lead.    At the end of the main line you knot a float with high carrying capacity, for example a pike pose with 12g upwards. Now you cast out and catch up until the float has reached the lead.

Then you give line from the reel until the float appears on the surface. The best way to do this is to mark exactly one meter on the rod and release exactly this meter of line again and again. Now you simply count how many meters of line you have released and know exactly how deep it is.

Advantages and disadvantages of pose montages

A short list of the advantages and disadvantages of floats:

+ Very fine bite indication possible

+ Fish hardly feel any resistance

+ Fishing in mid-water is possible

+ If set correctly, almost no hanging is possible

+ Perfect fishing in Medium water possible

– sounding necessary

– no wide casts

– tangling during casting possible

Surface fishing with water ball

Water balls are a special form of float. They can be filled with water up to the desired weight. Usually no extra lead weight is used. In addition, they are relatively inconspicuous, or at least they should be. The main area of application is surface fishing, e.g. with swimming bread. No lead pulls the swimming bread or bread crust under water. Nevertheless, wide casting is possible.

Additional articles

Natural bait Fishing for zander with a pose and bottom fishing rod >>

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